Go South - Mara Island and Gapa Island

The Southernmost tip of Korean Peninsula   
It's virtually impossible to talk about Mara Island without Jajangmyun (자장면), black bean paste noodle. If it were not for a television commercial for a Korean cellphone carrier in 1998, the Island would never have welcomed this many visitors whose ultimate mission is to eat Jajangmyun somewhere among a dozen of Jajangmyun restaurants on the tiny treeless island. The plot was clever. In the middle of the ocean near Mara Island, pretty much nowhere, a delivery man on a boat desperately cries out on his cellphone, "Who ordered Jajangmyun here?". It embodied that the company's service was available even in the southernmost tip of the country and it became a big hit that soon everyone was imitating the idiotic expression and the phrase as a joke.

from the deck trying to hold the sea-sickness!

During the 30-minute-long boat ride off Moseulpo Harbor, which is in south of the Island west to Seogwipo City, Jeju island, I was feeling terribly nauseous. Although it wasn't the smallest boat I was on, the wind was high enough to make the boat rock crazy as if it was going to be eaten by the waves. I tried to think of positive things like donuts and prayed hard 'Please let me eat Jajangmyun today since I made it all the way here!'. 


First, I walked around the Island to throw off the sickness. It was a beautiful sunny day in the company of my new friend Jung-hee, a 39 year-old mother of three children. We took a stroll up and down the hill along the wobbly outline of the Island and she told me about her life back home. It was an awfully lovely story about her kids, her husband who she's still passiontely in love with, her 2-year-old country life. By the way, you would have never guessed she was only 5 years younger than my mom when you first meet her. Despite the age difference, I felt extremely comfortable hearing her stories that I couldn't decide whether I wish I had an older sister like her or I wish my mom would talk to me like she does. By the time she finished her stories from her 20s and 30s and even touched up on her unashamed expectations about the 40s which she was entering in 3 days, we were back to the starting point after a complete tour around the island. Since there isn't really much to see besides the dramatic wave shattering coastline, it took us about only an hour.


Feeling a lot better, Jung-hee and I asked around which restaurant is good and walked into one of the many "Who ordered Jajangmyun here?" restaurants. Under the clear-colored plastic canopy, we were seated by a group of happy old couples whom I assumed to have had come in one of those big bulky tour buses. Hellos were exhanged and itineraries were compared. Then, as the conversation got more personal, out of the blue, we were poor student backpackers who had not eaten properly for 10 days. I was confused but I let Jung-hee go on and eventually realized it was her harmless trick. The already-touched grandparents got only more curious and we hid our mischievous smiles and carried on with even more pitiful story. By the time the much-waited Jajangmyun arrived, we were laughing helplessly with two full bags bean-paste-bread and plump oranges that the old couples left for us. 

Jajangmyun on Marado was modest. It wasn't too good nor too bad that it was just as it should be. I heard some people were saying it is rather terrible or way below one's expectation but I think it all depends on which restaurant you go to. It's fun to just try anything that comes into your sight as well but if you want to have a satisfying lunch, make sure to ask around. I don't remember the name of the restaurant I went in exactly, but It was almost in the last end off the crowded Jajangmyun restaurants circle. The seafood in the sauce was of course much more fresh than what we would get outside and the hand-made noodles had a bit of chewy texture. The price was even modestly 5,000 won that we don't even feel too much about it.

The ungodly sea-sickness didn't torture me on my way back as I tried to fall asleep in my seat instead of taking the hassle of going out in the deck and getting slapped by the wind just go get some fresh air. I got back at around 1 pm which was perfect to hit another Olle route till the sunset!

 The essence of life on a small island 
The vibrant green of the young barley field is pretty much all there is on Gapa Island which didn't get the title of the southernmost tip of the Peninsula just by 15-minute-long-boat ride distance. Though Gapa Island doesn't offer any grandiose special meal as Mara Island does with Jajangmyun, there is something intimate and pleasant about the Island.

If you tread through the massive barley fields, at least one Korean on the same path will talk about their childhood. The barley field is so nostalgic to many older Koreans whose childhood was often obssessed with the idea of not having to eat barley once family gets rich. Barley was the symbol of poverty. The green barley fields with gold glits fed the generations who worked so hard for the country and sent their kids to college eventually to not only shed the title of poverty but also carefully enjoy the wealth that came with their graying hair.

Besides the reminiscing tourists who would excitedly talk about how they grinded barley, there is a sheer beauty that could be enjoyed in this field. Though you can't, unfortunately, rustle through the field because there is a designated path you are allowed to tread on without damaging the barley, the image of soon-to-be gilded field is heart warming.

I was with a couple of other friends that day and as we walk along the island (which takes less than 1 hour) we started talking to some local people there. They all had deeply furrowed foreheads and their wrinkles got darker on their tanned skin as they smiled. We could tell that they had lived there for the most of their lives or at least they have not been to the mainland Korea many times. Soon we found out that one of the old men, who was reticent and rather old-fashioned, was the head of the village. He spoke with the gutty and rhythmic sound of Jeju dialect when he was determined to talk but seemed quite shy for a man of such responsibilities.

As I compliment on the beauty of the island and say it would be nice to live here quietly, he awkardly smiles towards the ocean and says with his hands clasped behind his back, "Unless you catch fish and your hubby works the land, you can't live here. There's nothing else to do nor eat." Then he shyly chuckles and tells me that we young folks will not quite understand what it's like. As if we are looking at a picture book with our grandpa telling us about his quiet life on a small island, there sitting in front of us were a flock of strollers which were left by the women who went to go catch fish for the day.

HOW TO GET THERE

I recommend going to either of the islands in the morning from around 9 am so you come back to Jeju by noon or 1pm and still have time to do something else.

To Marado 

Students on field trip flocked at the dock!   

 - From Moseulpo Terminal, you can sail to both Marado and Gapado. Buy tickets at Family Mart which is 10 minute walk away from the terminal. You get \4,000 off so it's \11,000 round-trip and you get a 30% off coupon for Sanbangsan springwater resort which is near by. sdfasd

The boat leaves Moseulpo every 30 minute and it takes 30 minutes to get there and come back. There are seats inside though many people prefer to stay out in the balcony to enjoy the view. In my personal opinion, resting in my seat with my eyes closed was very helpful to my sickness. 

To Gapado

  - They only accept a designated number of people every day so it is important to show up at the Terminal at least by 8:30 to buy tickets for the boat that leaves at 9. If you're booking for a group of people, make sure to bring their personal information such as address and phone number to the Terminal, because it is required to fill out a form to buy tickets. Return boat at 11:30 and the last one, as far as i know, was at 2.

WHAT TO EAT 

   - Of course you're going to eat Jajangmyun in Marado. Low expectation is always the best policy. Just pick a restaurant you like or talk to the travelors who just walked out of any of them and try a bowl of it. It is definitely preferable to otherwise getting harrassed by tens of ajummas (middle-aged women) who would drag you into their Jajangmyun shop! 

Walk the Island - Jeju Olle Trekking

For an island known to be one of the most attractive and exotic vacation spots, Jeju Island remains refreshingly real and incredibly Korean. A new kind of appreciation which looks beyond its ethereal charms was inaugurated by a series of trails along the coastline that was named "Olle routes" in 2007. Forget the tallest mountain in South Korea or hence the coolest something or the most magnificent something. You would rather walk along little formerly hidden alleys and  winding country roads. You would rather get lost in a dense forest entangled with tropical plants and climbing plants that do not allow a beam of sunlight even during the day. You may converse with a farmer at dusk who's on his way home with his pony. While waiting for a bus for nearly an hour in some countryside, you would rather try to chat with a flock of old women carrying something wrapped in a cloth on their backs and not understand a bit of their dialect even if you are a native Korean speaker.

There are about 23 different Olle trails, and every now and then the city comes up with a new trail. Each one is quite different from another, for example, one could entirely pass an underdiscovered forest that is akin to a jungle while another may go along the coast guiding you to enjoy mainly the view of the ocean and the cliffs. Mostly, though, they are doable 5-6 hour long walks/treks and sometimes heavenly quiet depending on the season. Getting to any starting point is not so difficult even if you don't speak Korean. Ask bus drivers or fellow Olle trekkers(who probably have more information on the trail system than any local person). Most guesthouses have information in English on how to get there and get back for each route only using public transportation. 

On my night of arrival at the island, I decided to make this trip completely spontaneous and have a lot of time for myself, reading, walking, writing or whatever. So instead of trying to pick one out of twenty-something all equally seemingly attractive routes, I went to the Jeju City Bus Terminal the next day and decided to walk the Route 1 as the prelude. However, I guess the nature of spontaneousenss couldn't bear the idea of "deciding" whatever's happening in the future. As soon as I got on the bus was to take me to Route 1, I was escorted out of the bus by a lady who directs traffic and who told me Route 1 was closed indefinitely till the foot and mouth disease calms down. Then a gang of friendly grandmothers who were waiting for their bus recommended me Route 5 and even showed me where to get on the bus bound for Route 5 as well, and I was strolling along Namwon Pogu (Namwon Dock) which is the starting point of Route 5 in an hour.

Only after about 1 hour long walk, miles of uncrowded craggy outline of the coast midly getting knocked by the waves spread before my eyes. Walking along the stone wall in a village overlooking the ocean, I couldn't help but adore the beautiful scenery which I hadn't enjoyed for a while. As I began climbing down the rocks towards the water, I found a couple of orange baskets floating on the water and I almost lost my breath. They were indeed Hanyeo, 해녀, the "sea women"! Just like mermaids, these women were in the water only in their wetsuit to catch sea pairs, abalone, sea cucumbers and other profitable fish. Hearing the Hanyeo's whistles not so far from the shattered and scattered waves was a very welcoming prelude to Jeju Island. 

Much more vivid and telling photographs are available here

Then I carried it onto the next week browsing and completing Olle route 6, 7, 10, 12, 14. Every morning, I woke up in the morning without the fetters of alarm clock and picked out a route I felt like and got on the road.

 

 The wobbly lines on the map are the Olle routes and when you start walking, you'll be led by the following flags or arrows. Sometimes they are ridiculously noticeable and outloud but other times they are so subtle that you would think you are lost for as long as you can. 

Walking is an incredibly soothing experience. All the beautiful things unfold before your eyes and make you speechless. Unless you are unfortunately stuck in a throng of ajummas whose sole purpose of walking Olle seems to be to chat about their sons and daughters, your hearing picks up the sound of birds chirpping and your feet slapping the ground that they become your universe. Somewhere between your consciousness and unconsciousness does your self start contemplating which fills you with turbulence and confusion then later sucks out all the discomforts but peace in mind. Though it is simliar to meditation in its principle, it's very different because your body's actively engaged in the process. So overwhelmed by the thoughts in my mind no matter how stupid and random they were, I had to sit down many times on a rock and let the petty thoughts and trifling worries to be brooded over as much as they can. After a while, they eventually went away and I was left with a sense of tranquility of mind and I would realize that they really are petty and trifling issues. Then I would rejoin the Olle route and immerse myself into the beauty of the nature that surrounds me.

What Olle offers is beyond the simple serenity. You are able to be in the right middle of the field passing farmers and local people doing their thing. Once you're in a remote village while walking the Olle routes, you're automatically given a chance to peek at the simple traditional life. Say hello to everyone you run into on the road and please, talk to the farmers. They are somewhat puzzled by the flow of incoming tourists but also happy to find them interested in their work. Don't look only at the tourist attractions hosted by Olle Routes. There are tons of famous spots that you will regret if you don't check out, but also, you would stumble upon so many precious things while walking through the wobbly alleys lined by stonewalls.



While walking route 14, I hung out on Hyupjae Beach for hours just sitting there watching people Kitesurfing and reading. The island that stands on the horizon is called Biyangdo 비양도, and resemble the boa constricter who swallowed an elephant from the Little Prince by Antoine De Saint-Exupery!

I walked Route 12 twice. One time by myself and the other with friends I met at the guesthouse. It didn't get boring the second time but even greater. Both times Route 12 was desolate but had so much to see from farmfields to caves with sedimentary rocks to mountains. It leads through country road, acres of farmland where all sorts of vegetables and fruit grow - oranges, onions, green onions, green tea..etc. Then it climbs the hill several times with spectacular views on top and on the last hill, you wade through the woods till you reach this stunning scenery. There is no other stimulant that keeps you going than the fact that there is a beautiful scenery awaiting you. This well-known cliff is called Sang-igijung, 생이기정, a notable spot among many attractions on the Olle routes. 

 And somewhere on the route 10, there was this really funky looking field.

Route 10 is pretty challenging and you will end up in front of three different military training camps if you lack a decent sense of direction like me. However it is confusing, it is so worth going there since it provides a variety of historic attractions ranging from remnants of a hanger shed (Al-turu Airfield, 알뜨르 비행장) built by the Japanese during WWII to those of a series of genocide/massacre occured mostly during the Korean war which are often referred as "4.3 Incident" as a whole. It is a very sad and embarrassing picture of the Cold War and disturbing nationalism which led tens of thousands of civilians who spoke for their political belief to be shot and buried with other bodies in a huge dug at the spot. The incident is still reluctantly addressed among politicians of Korea because the U.S. military and former Korean administrations were directly invovled while more bodies and remnants are being recovered. Though it seemed like they weren't really working on so much, there was this freakish box in which remnants such as bones and guns stumbled upon by passerbys were to be stored till some professionals pick them up!

 

Also, you pass a huge crater as you climb Mountain Song-ak on Route 10. I got lost on my way down, again, but rather loved walking through the woods as I found this unbelievable sight before my eyes. GRAZING HORSIES? Where the heck am I...

I had never seen drooping palm trees. But in Jeju, where the palm trees were imported and transplanted to maximize the dramatic exotic effect of the Island, they stay withered pretty much for two thirds of the year since Jeju is still not in the tropical zone no matter how much we Koreans wish it was.. The rape blossoms make it all pretty though! The following shot was taken during the Route 7.

This was my last night and my last Olle during my stay in Jeju. At the end of the Route 6, the crimson dusk descended as the unforgettable and unregrettable trip came to its close.

WHERE TO STAY

1. Springflower Guesthouse - This recently opened family-style guesthouse located near Moseulpo made me so many warm memories during the trip. I'll never forget the laughters, BBQ dinners, instant bonds and banter hosted by the amiable and generous owner. Perfect for those who want to trek Route 10~14 and also Mara Island which is the southernmost point of the Korean Peninsula! 2000-won lunch rice balls are very convenient as well. -- HERE

2. Yeha Guesthouse - Probably the most established foreigner-friendly guesthouse in Jeju. It's in the heart of Jeju City close to the airport and has a variety of restaurants and bars around though its being in the middle of the island makes it quite distant from all the Olle routes. A very high rating and popularity. Reservation and payment in advance is a must.  -- HERE

WHAT TO EAT / DRINK 

1. 고등어조림 / fresh mackerel boiled in spicy pepper sauce - Jeju's specialty that it is almost like a soup served with a few other side dishes. Though there are many kinds of fish that could be served in a simliar fashion, mackerel was my favorite.
2. 한라봉 / Hallabong is a seedless sweet orange from Jeju. They are very expensive everywhere else in Korea but here, you can even pick them up and eat them fresh if you luckily find them on the ground!
3. 삼겹살 / Samgyupsal Jeju's large black pigs are what people usually think of when they eat Samgyupsal in Jeju; however, it is only a touristy scheme. Jeju pork is from a normal breed of pigs but that are fed and bred differently which makes them one of the best in Korea. One BBQ night with soju is a very reasonable reward after long hours of walking an Olle route.
4. Hallasan - This soju(a popular clear Korean liquor) produced in Jeju as its name indicates represents the Island of Jeju and is one of many things people miss about Jeju when they go back home. It is 21 percent alcohol, slightly stronger than other kinds, but has less odor and softer to drink.
5. Jeju Makgoli - A must drink especially when you're hiking or walking during the day. If you have been in Korea for a while or have hiked in Korea, you know there is nothing more of a reward than drinking Makgoli on top of the mountain with Pajeon, the Korean-style pancake with seafood and green onions. There is no exception to this case except for that this Makgoli, you can only have in Jeju! I've seen quite a lot of people carrying Makgoli bottles instead of water bottles while walking the Olle routes. A brilliant idea even though dangerous if it's overdone.

WHATELSE TO DO

1. Every 5 days markets - Each village hosts alternately hosts its market so if you know the dates of the markets of surrounding villages, you will soon find yourself in the middle of an event that looks like a conference for all the street vendors in town. There is nothing you can't possibly find in this market. Also, traditional candy and snacks galore will entertain you very much.
2. Mountain Halla - Go on a real hike. Mountain Halla is the tallest mountain in South Korea and the grandeur of this mountain is beyond words. Despite its seemingly challenging-ness, you could take the easiest 4-hour long hike up there using public transportation. All you have to do is getting on the bus, getting off the bus, walking up the mountain, and enjoying the magnificent view from the top.

Seogwipo Harbor, Jeju Island 서귀포항

As the dusk creeps in, boat horns are blasted and anchors are casted. The fishermen, so anxious to go home, are squatting on the floor of their small boats hurriedly sorting out nets and their pink and blue plastic baskets. Across from them, peacefully resting are the boats that are to go sail at night.

The houses and the restaurants surrounding the harbor are full of reminiscences of the 70's Korea.